Before leaving Dieppe behind, a touch of the city’s history: Saturday they had “celebrated” the 75th anniversary for the first allied landing, which completely failed. The landing was Canadian led, and it cost the lives of 3000 allied soldiers. The city was still full of Canadian flags and veteran jeeps with elderly camouflage clothed men at the wheels.
We left Dieppe along the steep shores in a rainy mist. The coastline looks a bit like the Danish Stevns Klint, and through the mist it reminds us of an endless New York skyline.
The weather has now cleared up, and turned summer. There is oil on the water, almost entirely flat. We will be sailing on through the night, taking advantage of the nice clear weather and aiming for favourable tides when rounding the next coastal point.
Dunkerque was left by 9 am, with the intention of going far. It was a thrilling sail, tacking in the fairways between marked sandbanks. The wind was increasing to about 16 m/s agains, and heavy currents also against. We only made 28 nm in 8 hours! Finally we had to give up, and spend the night at a waiting bouy in Calais ferry harbor.
It is not charming in the ferry harbor, but having stocked supplies for a night sail we were not short of anything. We had a good time with gin tonics and high cigars (thank you Mette for the “cigars”), and a good dinner.
We could finally leave the waiting boy at 6 am the next morning, and what a contrast! Now, with heavy favourable currents andd 10 m/s wind from west we logged 10 knots around the next landhead, and from then had a side wind to Dieppe. 74 nm in 10 hours, with a gorgeous weather.
Now we are in very charming Dieppe, with a lively restaurant life at the dockside (at the moment 8 meters above the floating docks). We will have to get used to sailing with such strong tides!
As Amanda left Cuxhaven almost a week ago, it was in the company of another Danish ship heading south, the S/Y Lady A. From there, Amanda was caught on camera, flying her gennaker beautifully in perfect sailing weather (this was before the halyard broke)
Thursday night we wanted to go out for a good meal, and the female harbor assistant guided us to the variety of restaurants along the museum quay. We went there, only to find out they were all closed up for holiday breaks! The host at a bar recommended the yacht club as the best dining place in Dunkerque, and so we trotted back again.
That turned out to be a great idea – we had excellent food, and the festive chef gave us a couple of bottles of specialty beer for a nightcap on the boat.
Friday was a layday in Dunkerque. Erik has fixed a new plug for the VHF cable, which was defect. Since Kiel we have been on the backup antenna. In addition, a leaky porthole was grouted, and a few other small tasks. Jørgen is working on a malfunctioning signal etc.
The rest of the crew has spent the day exploring the city and museums. What a destiny the city has had. There are not many old buildings, it was that destroyed in 1940. But the modern rebuilt architecture is very handsome and special.
Today’s trip to Dunkerque was shorter (40 nm) but more dramatic. It startet with some heavy showers, so bad we could hardly see land. The Belgian coast offers an incredible number of highrise enclaves with hotels and holiday homes. Beautiful beaches, but not a tourist in sight in this weather.
We are rapidly changing recognition flads. The German one was magically transformed into a Belgian, with a bit of fine handywork.
The trip ended with increasing wind, up to 16 m/s. The combination of favorable current and a heading wind created some quite unpleasant waves, not least at the entrance to the harbor. But now we are in, and ready to experience the city and the sad historic memories.
IJmuiden turned out to be a bit lacking in charm. A once grand holiday center with hotels, restaurants and a large marina, but now quite run down with lots of empty moorings. However, we were thrilled because there was showers and best of all supermarkets. Our supplies from home on yoghurt, bread, coffee, eggs and cheese ran out Tuesday because neither Holtenau nor Cuxhaven had open shops at our late arrival and early departure.
Thus well stocked, we steamed off at 6 the next morning, at a very lovely sunrise.
We have now set course for Zeebrugge, 12 hours of sailing. The weather forecast for Friday is bad, so we are determined to get as far as possible before that.
We have met plenty of big freighters, at speed or moored up outside of Rotterdam.
En route we picked up a new passenger. It apparently thought it had made reservations for a cabin, we had to constantly get it out of the salon
We don’t have much wind, and what we have is against us. We are sailing for mainsail and motor, with the diamond hoisted (the signal that a boat is going by motor)
After the fextive but rainy departure from Kerteminde, the voyage of Amanda had a rough start. For the first 70 nautic miles, the rain was accompanied by a strong wind straight on – so it was a tired crew that arrived late in Holtenau (Kiel).
The stay was short, the next day gave an early departure through the Kiel Canal – again with a late arrival in Cuxhaven followed by another early departure.
Leaving Cuxhaven, the North sea showed it’s best face – sunny, 2 nm advantageous current, nice breeze from SSE allowing the use of gennaker.
It was decided to drop the planned stop at Helgoland, and instead take full advantage of the perfect conditions heading south.
Amanda pushed through the day and continued all night. The crew had high spirits, keeping 3-hour shifts throughout the night.
Arrival in IJmuiden is expected mid-afternoon, Tuesday.